Sailing Vessel Beruta Ship's Log
Honokohau, Big Island - Maalaea, Maui
Monday, February 10, 2025
After spending two weeks in Honokohau, it was time to move on. Essentially, all the distances I could cover by bike or on foot in a day had been covered. Specifically, I rode my bike up a mountain where I could hike through the jungles for an hour or so — the O'oma Trails. Honestly, the trails weren't great, nothing compared to Akaka Falls. The real challenge was the 1,000-meter climb by bike. Later, I went to the airport to pick up a car I'd rented for two days to reach the main purpose of my stay on the Big Island: the volcanoes. Here, you'll find three of the most famous volcanoes: Mauna Kea, the tallest if measured from the ocean floor, with numerous telescopes at its summit and the nearby glacial Lake Waiau; Mauna Loa, the most massive — though the road there was blocked by lava, according to a ranger; and Kilauea, the most active, where you can descend into a smaller, cooler crater called Kilauea Iki. I also biked to a laundromat in Kailua-Kona. Walked around the marina — nothing special — and hiked the trail to the Captain Cook Monument at Kealakekua Bay (about 400-meter vertical climb), which was the second, equally important reason for visiting the island. All photos are in the Big Island album. I'll post videos later, covering all the islands at once.
The next Hawaiian island was Maui. The only marina here is in Ma'alaea. The more famous one in Lahaina burned down and won't be rebuilt anytime soon.
I arranged a week-long stay at Ma'xalaea Marina by phone and email. The prices here are similar to Honokohau since it's state-run and under the same DOBOR department. Oddly, when booking, they only asked for an application, a registration, and an insurance. No mention of a captain's license, a cruising permit, an arrival paperwork, or a boat inspection.
At 4 PM, I bid farewell to the Honokohau Marina office over the phone, untied from the dock, and moored at the fuel dock pontoon near the marina exit. Filled nine cans with red-dyed diesel. I gather this is for boats only, as it's taxed less than undyed diesel for cars, which likely includes road taxes.
I left the marina around 4:30 PM. Poured three cans into the tank after filtering the fuel and adding biocide.
Ma'alaea was 72 nautical miles away. That's why I had to make an overnight passage — it was impossible to reach in daylight. Course was 337° T. The wind was light and head-on at first. Later, around 11 PM, as I cleared the island's wind shadow, a 20-knot beam wind picked up, whistling through the rigging, with whitecaps glittering under the full moon. It was only 10 kts in a forecast.
Tuesday, February 11, 2025
Sleep, as usual, was elusive despite my efforts. The proximity of land never lets you relax.
By 3 AM, the wind died and turned head-on as I rounded Maui. No point fussing with the jib. So I motored the entire way with a triple-reefed mainsail for stability and a slight speed boost on a reach.
First, I heard a breathy exhalation, then spotted the back of a humpback whale about 30 meters off the port side. Yep, gotta stay alert. They sleep at night. This one probably woke up to the engine noise and dove immediately.
I ate breakfast around 5 AM, still in darkness.
At sunrise, I entered Ma'alaea Marina, where slip #66 was reserved. Finding the number was impossible, just like in Honokohau. I reached the end of the bay, seeing slips #20, 24, 26. When I turned around, folks on nearby boats realized I needed help and all started pointing to slip #66. In the marina there was a morning chaos — mostly tourists coming and going. They helped me dock. I'd assumed moorings here, but it was the slip. Though it surges a lot at the moment, probably because of a high pressure and no wind. I had to use spring absorbers to cushion the jerking. I was told that usually it was no surge but strong winds.
Before arriving, I was disappointed by an email from the company Economy Bookings that helped me book a car through Avis. A straight-up scam. They charged me $140 for Toyota at $70/day. Avis then charged $120 for Jeep at $55/day plus taxes. Turns out, Avis ripped me off. They offered a Jeep "discounted" to $55/day, which later turned out to be $55/day, on top of the $70!
Nothing in the rental agreement mentioned this — though I might've missed it. The clerk claimed the Jeep normally cost $135/day, but she'd give it to me for $55. Total swindlers. I called Avis, demanded the contract they suspiciously hadn't provided earlier. They promised to email it in a few days! When I asked why not now, they replied that they need an authorization! Fuck... I hope Trump will finish with these bureaucrats and liars soon, even though I do not support him.
The marina office took all my documents plus a credit card — why did I even bother printing, filling, scanning, and emailing them beforehand?! They said they'd email the receipt. Ugh, another scam?
The marina's advertised showers don't exist! Toilets close at night! Only water and electricity (120V) at the docks. In Honokohau, there was just water and a purified water machine (I filled all my cans at $1.50 for 5 gallons), but toilets stayed open, I think. Prices are reasonable, though, since these are state marinas.
No wonder everyone says Hawaii is unwelcoming to transient sailors. Hoping O'ahu will be better — Ala Wai Marina in Honolulu, near Waikiki Beach, seems decent.
All pictures from Maui are on Google Photos.